In addition to the saddle, another major component that affects the long-distance road riding experience is the handlebar. Nowadays, handlebar manufacturers and brands provide handlebars of different widths and lengths for various riders. So in the face of a dazzling array of handlebars, how should we choose the one that suits us?This article is about two points to consider when choosing a handlebar, whether you are buying a handlebar for the first time or want to further upgrade your bicycle, these two points are applicable.Choose the length of the handlebarIn the choice of the length of the handlebar, there are mainly two opinions.The first argument is that the long handlebars can better reflect the effect of leverage, allowing the rider to use more power to control the bicycle. And the long handlebars also help to open our chests and breathe easier.The second argument is more inclined to use short handlebars. This argument believes that narrow handlebars can stretch people's shoulders and back, thereby reducing muscle tension and fatigue. Not only that, but the shorter handlebars can also make the aerodynamic effect more prominent.My original handlebar was at least 44cm in length, but now my handlebar is only 42cm in length.I still remember when I was changing the handlebars, I was always worried. First of all, I know that depending on the length of the handlebars, there will be great differences in the feelings of cycling. These differences are reflected in the feeling of support and chest stretch when cycling, and the second is because of my body shape. More than the average rider huge.After changing to the new handlebar, I did feel that the leverage on this shorter new handlebar would be less than that of the old handlebar, but from my overall feelings of support, I got used to it quickly.In terms of comfort, because the new handlebars are shorter, the distance between my hands is closer, so my triceps also need to exert more force. But this may also be the reason why I don't tighten my arms when riding a bike. In short, I have already digested the difference in feeling.In terms of breathing, I didn't obviously feel that these two handlebars of different lengths had any effect on my breathing, so I couldn't make a statement.Eddie Audi, the founder of a bicycle fitness center in Atlanta, said "According to experience, the distance between the two shoulder lock joints should match the length of the handlebar. But this is only the conclusion that most people have concluded. Not necessarily applicable to everyone."(Note: Acromioclavicular joint, referred to as AC joint. It refers to the sliding or planar joint formed by the acromioclavicular articular surface and the outer end of the clavicle, located on the outermost side of the scapula.)Eddie Audi also said, "Short handlebars will make our elbows and forearms tight, which can easily lead to forearm fatigue. But in fact, long handlebars have their own problems."So having said so much, if we want to buy the most suitable handlebars, we still need to try and experience them ourselves.But here, this article can still make a suggestion. That is, if you feel your back and neck muscles tight and tired every time you finish riding, then your handlebars may be too long. But if you feel that your arm muscles are very tired or have chest tightness or nervousness when riding a bike, then the handlebars are too short for you.Selection of handlebar shapeEddie Audi said, "When choosing a flat or round handlebar shape, the size of the hand is a very important determinant. People with larger hands can use a wide and flat handlebar, and people with smaller hands can use it. It is more suitable for thinner handlebars. This is because people who are not big enough need to open their hands when using wide handlebars, which will increase the burden on the forearms. This principle is similar to the grip of a tennis racket."This suggestion is very useful.In my own experience, because I am tall and strong, my hands are also very large, so I always prefer to use wide and flat handlebars. But when I checked my bicycle recently, I suddenly changed myself to a thin round alloy handlebar, and the experience was very poor.
Regardless of whether it is the first bike or the Nth bike, before the start, I will hesitate to assemble a bicycle, hoping to achieve the 100 points in my mind. Let us simply analyze the characteristics of buying a complete bike and assembling a bicycle to help you consume fewer brain cells.Unless you have a tool wall, know the specifications and compatibility of various parts, and have special channels to get cheap parts, it will not be cheap to buy parts separately. If you are newer, you will buy a lot of strange or wrong things, easy to spend wrong money.Compared with buying a complete bike the advantages of assembling the bicycle:Freely decide what grade of parts to be equipped on the bike;Freely decide what purpose the bicycle will be used for;The complete bike can only be exchanged for different models according to different purposes. It is not as free as assembling a bicycle, and the reality may be cruelerThe paint you like does not have the function you want,Have the features you want but don't have the paint you like,The paint you like plus the features you want, but it doesn't have the size you wantAssembling a bike requires a lot of time to search for parts, and after finding them, they will have to assemble them one by one, and buy a new one in case the specifications are wrong. It is also a way to pay the bicycle shop to assemble the bike, but it also takes time and also requires an assembly fee. But it's faster than the time it takes to explore. Inexperienced users may damage the parts by themselves. At this time, it is best to find a professional to help you assemble the bike. Buying the complete bike only needs to spend time looking for the bike, and the rest is handled by the professional technicians of the store, which will save a lot of time overall.A sense of accomplishment: Of course, it is more than buying a complete bike! Seeing his bike taking shape step by step, the sense of accomplishment is indescribable! That feeling is the same as seeing a child raised all the way finally grow up and have a successful career.Skills: If cycling is an important activity in your life, it is best to learn how to assemble a bicycle by yourself, and prepare some equipment for long-term use. If you learn how to build a bicycle, you can better maintain your bike. When you encounter problems during cycling, you can find out and know how to solve them in time. At the same time, when you buy the next bicycle, you can quickly assemble it. When you have your own channels, you can save more money than buying the whole bike!Click Here to buy Carbon Fiber Full Suspension MTB Frame
Empecemos contando desde el principio.Llevaba un para de años dándole vueltas a lo de comprarme un cuadro de doble suspensión de carbono y aprovechar las piezas de mi bici.Después de muchas vueltas , mirar páginas webs, comentarios, fotos, foros… estaba entre tres cuadros diferentes y al final me decidí por el Trifox por geometría,estética y por todas las bondades que le presuponía ya que había leído mucho sobre el.El día que me decidí a comprarlo contacté con ellos y mi primera sorpresa fue que el precio había subido, pensé que sería debido a la pa Denia mundial que nos estaba azotando y que con el tiempo bajaría de precio así que se lo pregunté a mi contacto y me dio las explicaciones de porque había subido el precio y que no bajaría.Me lo compre aun pensando que era muy caro, pero con el tiempo me di cuenta que mi pensamiento era erróneo y que su precio está muy bien.Tuve que esperar ya que con el tema de la pa Denis se retrasó un poco el envío pero en cuanto llego y abrí la caja me di cuenta que había hecho una compra maestra.El embalaje era perfecto con mucho mimo para que el cuadro no sufriese ningún desperfecto en el largo viaje.A primera vista el cuadro es muy bonito y el acabado de la pintura Titanium espectacular; me acababa de enamorar.Siguiente paso llevarlo a la tienda a montarlo con todas las piezas de mi otra bici.Aquí surgieron varios problemas sin importancia piezas que no me valían y unos casquillos del amortiguador que no valían para mi amortiguador dt swiss xr carbon así que para no demorarme más compre otro amortiguador que me valdría un rock shox monarch que este si valía perfectamente.Ahora si ya estaba montada , engrasada y esperándome a sacarla a correr, saltar , subir, bajar y todo lo que le mandase hacer.Primera toma de contacto un paseo de 20 km para poner todo a punto altura de sillín , calas este tornillo que se afloja….Y al día siguiente a darle caña.Vía verde de Galdames ( 50 km) llanos para ir a tope y ver lo rápida y rígida que es la bici.Y no me defraudo para nada es un misil, muy rápida y rígida la suspensión se comporta muy bien absorbiendo las pequeñas irregularidades del terreno y no balancea nada , es muy reactiva cuando le pegas un acelerón no le cuesta nada y se nota que la fuerza que imprimes a los pedales va directamente a las ruedas y eso se debe a la rigidez del cuadro, aquí empecé a notar las miradas de otros ciclistas a mi bici, si es que el cuadro es precioso como no va a mirarme la gente.Segunda toma de contacto 70 km por verdadero monte, senderos subidas , bajadas aquí la vamos a probar bien de verdad en todo tipo de terreno.Empezamos saliendo de casa a ritmo tranquilo poniendo mil ojos en toda la bici a ver si todo sigue en orden.Pasamos unos kilómetros por el carril bici sin ningún problema todo está ok.Llegamos al kilómetro 15 y llegamos al monte.Primera subida fuerte muy bacheada y rota y la bici se comporta como hasta ahora rígida, recogiendo todos los baches del terreno y sin perder un ápice de rigidez y trazando todo el camino por donde le mandas.Un leve giro del manillar y la bici para allí que va sin problemas.Subiendo se comporta como una verdadera purasangre , una bici de campeonato del mundo , una bici que si la llevase Niño Schurter ganaría un campeonato del mundo como minimo.Después de unos cuantos de kilómetros seguidos subiendo llegamos a la cima y ahora toca bajar; y como no puede ser de otra manera me encanta bajar con esta bici y es una bici que baja casi mejor que sube.Trazas las curvas de maravilla y absorbe muy bien los baches además al ser un cuadro de carbono se nota que el mismo cuadro absorbe también algo los baches y eso se debe a las capas y formas del carbono que está muy bien estudiando para que así se comporte.Aquí el pequeño peso que tiene de más el cuadro no es un pequeño inconveniente como subiendo sino que es un plus y hace a la bici más rápida y rígida.Así me paso los siguientes 25 km alucinando con el comportamiento, bondades,rigidez, absorción,reactividad … del cuadro.Ahora me doy cuenta que los casi 1000€ que he pagado por el cuadro son pocos € ya que un cuadro de este calibre pero de cualquier otra marca de renombre vale el doble o más.Después de unos cuantos mese y unos cuantos kilómetros de uso sigo pensando lo mismo y lo único que pienso es como se comportaría si estuviese montado con todo lo mejor que hay en el mercado, aunque después me digo que ya sé que se comportaría de 10 ya que sé que hay algún equipo de UCI Wc Mtb que compite con el cuadro bajo el nombre de otra marca.Lo único que creo que falla un poquito el cuadro es el peso aunque estoy seguro que cuando revisen el cuadro usarán mejores fibras para rebajar el peso del cuadro que si lo rebajasen en 200 gr. se quedaría en un peso alucinante.Como digo después de un tiempo con el yo recomiendo totalmente su compra y que cada uno lo monte con las piezas que pueda ( las mejores , las peores, nuevas o de segundamano) porque seguro que quedará una bici muy buena ya que su cuadro se comporta bien en todas las sitiaciones( monte , carretera, sendas , subidas, bajadas..)Haga clic aquí para comprar el cuadro de MTB Trifox de fibra de carbono con doble suspensión
1. FrameTo clean the frame, you can use a rag dipped in water to pour on the parts, so that the mud stuck to the bottom of the frame will easily become soft when exposed to water. At this time, just wipe with a rag to easily remove the mud. It is not advisable to use a high-pressure water gun to wash the sludge on the bicycle, because this cleaning will easily enter the bottom bracket or hub and affect the life of the parts.At this time, you need to pay attention to some places where mud is easy to accumulate on the frame, such as the position of the bottom bracket on the bottom bracket. After washing off the muddy water on the frame with clean water, wipe it with a semi-dry damp cloth. When there is dirt on the frame, just wipe it back and forth several times, and the frame will be clean. Remember not to scrub with detergent and soapy water.2. Wheels, tires, and seat postWhen washing the wheelset, you can choose to use the shoe brush dipped in detergent to brush the sand on the tire. When washing the rim, it is best to use a semi-dry damp cloth and carefully wipe the brake pads on the rim. Simply scrub the spokes. After washing the hub, do not use a high-pressure water gun to remove the detergent. Simply dip it in water and wipe it with a clean cloth. When washing the seat post and the saddle, be careful not to let muddy water flow into the seat tube along the seam of the seat post clamp. Under the saddle, it is often the place where mud and water fly up the most, so you must carefully wipe off the mud with a rag.For tires, you can use a slightly harder brush to remove the sand and dust from the tires for simple maintenance.3. Shifter, front derailleur, and rear derailleurAfter washing the above parts, the next step is to wash the shifter. The shifter is more complicated. There is more butter in the parts for lubrication. When cleaning the shifter, it is best to wipe it gently with a rag, and it will be clean. When washing front and rear derailleurs, you can directly aim the water pipe at the gap between the front and rear derailleurs to rinse with water, so that the mud and sand stuck in the front and rear dials can be washed away. After flushing, you can also use detergent to wash off the oil on the front and rear derailleurs.4. Fork, pedal, brakeIt's easy to clean the front fork and pedals. The pedals only need to be washed off with mud. It is best not to rinse the front fork with water. When scrubbing the inner tube of the front fork, wring out the water on the rag before wiping. Some impurities will remain on the inner tube of the front fork after using it for a period of time. You can gently wipe it off with a cotton swab. It is best to develop a habit of keeping the front fork clean. This is also the most basic maintenance of the front fork. When washing the brake (subject to the V brake), you can directly flush the mud and sand left in the brake with a water pipe to prepare for the next maintenance.For chain wheel, front and rear transmissions, guide wheels, etc., dust and small dirt can be removed with a brush.5. Crankset, freewheel, and chainIn the entire cleaning process, these three accessories may be the dirtiest parts. Because the lubricating oil is left on the accessories, dust is most likely to adhere. We can pour the same dishwashing detergent on the cloth first, and then clean the chainring after dipping it in water. When washing the chainring, try to wash every tooth with a cloth as much as possible. After washing, rinse with water. You will be pleasantly surprised to find that the crankset is as bright as new under the scrubbing with a dishcloth.The next thing to wash is the freewheel. To wash the freewheel, remove the rear wheel for cleaning. First, release the rear brake so that the brake does not pinch the wheel. First, loosen the screws on both sides of the rear wheel quick release. At this time, tap the rear wheel lightly and the wheel will come out.Put the wheels on the ground, wipe them carefully on the freewheel with a rag, pay attention to the position of the rear derailleur when putting the wheels back on the bicycle, and slowly pull the rear derailleur to put the wheels in. This process is very simple, and you can understand it after disassembly and assembly once or twice.
Cyclists need to improve the three main elements of speed, strength, and endurance: training content, nutritional supplies, and equipment. Here to share with you, the coup disassembly of upgrading equipment.1. Lighter wheelsThe first thing to upgrade is the wheels. why? Everything comes from the rules of physics, and the rolling weight has a greater impact than the static weight (frame). This means that only a few hundred grams of weight loss can dramatically increase the speed. You will speed up on flat roads and throw away riders, and you will be more powerful when climbing hills. You will especially feel the importance of lightweight wheels.2. Aerodynamic wheelsAnother way to increase speed is aerodynamic wheels. Many wind tunnel test results have shown that when the speed exceeds 40 kilometers per hour, the aero wheel can save 1-2% of pedaling output. The reason is very simple. The higher the frame height, the more aerodynamic wheels can reduce turbulence and reduce air resistance in headwinds. However, although it runs fast, it is also more difficult to control than the low-frame high-wheelset, so it is recommended to use it in the time trial.3. TiresIn theory, the closest contact between a bicycle and the ground will have a great impact on rolling speed and comfort. However, people don’t care very much and just use standard tires when buying a bicycle. This is very wrong. Our suggestion is to try high-weave-density road tires. A tire with a high TPI number means that the higher the fine nylon thread is woven inside, it can reduce the rolling resistance and increase the speed. But there are advantages and disadvantages; the disadvantage is that high TPI numbers are more prone to snake bites. When winter comes, change to winter tires with thicker rubber layers.4. Derailleur kitThe electronic kit can be said to be a major evolution in the evolution of bicycles in recent years. When the traditional mechanical kit is still pulling the cord, the electronic kit has sent electronic signals to the front and rear derailleur, which is a wireless signal near the speed of light. Among the many benefits, the most important is more precise and quick gear shifting.5. BB bottom bracketIf you use a poor-quality BB bottom bracket, your large plate crankset will not rotate smoothly and save effort, so you will waste some energy when you step on each lap. It is recommended that top players who pursue performance choose BB bottom brackets with ceramic bearings for two reasons, both of which are critical: the first is that ceramic bearings will reduce resistance; the second is that their life span is more than ten times that of steel bearings.6. Power meterThe function of the computer should not only display basic information such as speed and RPM. If you care about your pedaling performance, the power meter is already an indispensable helper. The power meter can actually measure the wattage of the power generated by the rider on the bicycle, and then transmit this information to your bicycle watch mounted on the handle.Why are these power data so useful? Because when you have the FTP functional threshold power (Functional Threshold Power)-that is, the data of the maximum average power obtained in an hour of exhausting and stable riding, you can match your physical lactic acid threshold Ride in the interval. This is very helpful for the sprint high-intensity (121%-150 FTP) in the first interval (about 55% FTP) and the sixth interval.
Cycling is a great activity that can help you stay fit and lose weight. But how much time is appropriate for cycling each day?Riding for 30 minutes three to four times a week can help accelerate your weight loss and significantly improve your fitness levels. 30 minutes of moderate-intensity cycling 4 times a week can burn about 1.3 kg of fat per month.30 Minutes to Bike and Lose Weight The average person burns about 400 to 700 calories riding a bicycle for half an hour under average riding conditions. In order to lose 1 pound of fat, you need to burn 3600 calories, which is equivalent to 5 to 7 hours of moderate cycling. Riding more than 3 or 4 times a week can be challenging for beginners. It is recommended that you start with fewer rides and slowly increase the intensity as your knees and joints adapt. How far can you ride in 30 minutes? Most new cyclists can cover 8-10km in 30 minutes. Ride at an average speed of 19-26 km/h on a flat road. As the weather and terrain change, so will the average speed and distance traveled. If you’re cycling in the city, you also need to consider traffic. The following factors can affect your speed, in order of importance: your fitness level terrain headwind or crosswind bike type tire width and pressureHow Fast Does Your Performance Improve After 30 Minutes of Ride? Unfit individuals may feel the need to take a break after riding for 10-15 minutes. If you fall into this category, there is no shame in it, and no need to panic or throw in the towel prematurely. If you can only ride 10-15 minutes without a break at first, and you ride the bike 2-3 times a week, within three weeks you’ll be able to ride 30 minutes without any problem. Your fitness level will increase exponentially in the beginning. After a month of regular cycling, you’ll feel energized and fit enough even on moderately difficult climbs, and you’ll also notice a big boost to your health in other areas (such as when climbing stairs and not out of breath). How often should you ride？ You should start out cycling 2-4 times a week depending on your current fitness level. Riding less than twice a week won’t get your muscles going enough, and starting out more than 4 times a week will initially take its toll on your body too much. Remember that a new rider’s muscles and joints need time to get used to riding and they need time to recover. Experts recommend 30 minutes of cardiovascular exercise at least five times a week to maintain a healthy lifestyle. So cycle 5 times a week, and of course, any combination of cycling, running, and walking. The most important thing is to find something you enjoy doing and something that keeps you fit, and cycling is definitely a good choice.
When buying a frame, many riders only choose the model based on their height, which often leads to a series of frame size deviations, difficulty in adjusting the height of the saddle, and pain caused by excessive extension in subsequent riding. Today I will bring you a little knowledge, on how to choose the correct frame size.We need to clarify the difference between Bike Sizing and Bike FittingBike Sizing, based on the measurement of human body data, ensures that the rider buys the frame and parts of the correct size, and the measurement is simple, only basic tools are needed to lay the foundation for subsequent Bike Fitting.Bike Fitting is based on kinematics data to adjust some of the contact points between the rider and the bicycle and make reasonable adjustments to the riding posture based on the rider's physical assessment and riding style.Bike Sizing, as a basic operation, assists us in choosing the correct road bike size, making the bike more suitable for its own value and increased riding comfort. Therefore, friends can go to a nearby bicycle shop for professional size measurement or use simple tools to measure the size of their own bikes at home.Basic measurement preparation:Level, tape, cycling pants, cycling socks, paper, pens, etc., you can start measuring with basic preparations.Measurement span●Take off your shoes and stand at approximately the distance between your feet◆Lift up the level forcefully and hold it against the pubic bone■Measure the vertical height, the data is accurate to millimetersNote: In this step, avoid wearing any daily casual pants or jeans. The thickness of the crotch of ordinary pants and cycling pants is different, and there will be large errors in the measurement.Assess lower limb flexibility●Place your arms on your shoulders and stand with your feet shoulder-width apart (place your arms on your shoulders, which can reduce the tester's awareness of touching the ground with his hands and reduce the evaluation error caused by excessive pressure on the upper limbs)◆Knees stretched straight, legs perpendicular to the ground●Bend the hips to the back of the lower extremities tight■Observe the inclination of the sacrumNote: When flexing the hip, if the hip has a certain amount of backward tilt and the lower limbs are not stretched, it will affect the final judgment and evaluation. It can be carried out against the wall to prevent variables that affect the evaluation.03 Record and calculate●Record the measured span height data (accurate to mm)◆Evaluate the degree of flexibility of the lower limbs. The acceptable drop angle is different for different flexibility, and the flexibility is poor. In the setting of the car, it is necessary to consider reducing the drop from the seat to the handlebar.■Calculate the approximate seat cushion heightCalculation formula: span height×0.887, which is the height of the saddle (the length from the center point of the bottom bracket to the apex of the center of the saddle, as shown in the figure below)04 Check the size chart to determine the frame sizeIt is obtained by calculation, and after rounding the value, you can find the corresponding frame size in the size table.How to determine the size of the frameMeasure the distance from the Crotch to the ground as AThen the size of the road bike frame is A(cm)x0.67=BThe size of the mountain bike frame is (B-11)x0.394=CExampleIf A=77cmThen the applicable road bike frame is 77×0.67=51.6cmThe applicable mountain bike frame size is (51.6-11)x0.394=16″Measure the distance from the bottom to the ground as AThen the size of the road bike frame is A(cm)x0.67=BThe size of the mountain bike frame is (B-11)x0.394=CHow to determine the length of the frameMeasure the distance from the lower straddle to the clavicle as EMeasure the distance from the armpit to the thumb joint as FThen the horizontal length of the frame (including the stem length) is DD=(E+F)/2 +XStem Length=D-ET(effective top tube length)If E=58cm, F=55cm, thenThe length of the road bike body is (58+55)/2+4=60.5cmThe size of the mountain bike body length is (58+55)/2 +8=64.5cmThe stem length of the road bike is 60.5 -53.9 = 6.6cmThe stem length of the mountain bike is 64.5 -56 =8.5cmEveryone's body length, foot length, and hand length are different. However, most of today's frames can be adjusted by adjusting the front, rear, and height of the saddle, and the distance of the handlebars, and making slight adjustments to match the most suitable cycling posture. Choose the correct size based on your height, and then "fine-tune" the saddle or stem and handlebar to suit the length of your hands and feet. Choose an unsuitable frame, and then "replace" the saddle or stem and handlebar to suit the individual. The height and length of the hands and feet are the same. Some people choose a frame based on the length of their feet alone. For example, if a person with 180cm legs has short legs and a foot length of 75cm, he would choose a 16-inch frame. But the legs are short relative to the body and must be longer. If it fits his feet, it cannot fit his upper body. There is no way to fine-tune it. Therefore, you must choose the correct frame based on your height to have room for fine-tuning.For a bicycle with a 26-inch wheel diameter, a height of 180cm is the most suitable size for a seat tube of 18 inches, 170cm is 17 inches, and of course, 160cm is 16 inches! The height of 150-160 can choose a frame of 14-15.5 inches. If you are taller than 180, it is recommended to try your friend's 18 to 21-inch frame in person (due to the same wheel diameter, the size of the frame under 160 and over 180 will start to deviate).700c frame wheel diameter road bike: top tube length 49 (+-0.5cm) suitable for riders with a height of 155 (+-5cm); top tube length 50 (+-0.5cm) suitable for a height of 160 (+-5cm); Top tube length 51 (+-0.5cm) is suitable for height 165 (+-5cm); top tube length is 52 (+-0.5cm) is suitable for height 170 (+-5cm) and top tube length is 53 (+-0. 5cm) is suitable for height 175 (+-5cm); the top tube length 54 (+-0.5cm) is suitable for the height of 180 (+-5cm). The above is the general recommended value. For those with short bodies and long legs, try not to exceed the recommended value.The frame is the most important backbone of the bicycle. Choose the right frame and cycling life is wonderful (it will be fine if you want to change anything in the future); if you choose the wrong frame, cycling will be frustrating. It is useless to choose an oversized frame, which is not a wise choice to increase the weight of the frame and reduce the handling flexibility.Mountain bikes are based on the subjective comfort of the individual riding. In addition, the horizontal angle of the high-span or low-span "up tube" (connected to the head tube to the seatpost) frame can be considered, so that the foot will not be allowed to land when the rider stops. Straddle down to the frame, and don't deliberately choose a high-span frame that is too small to cater to the lack of leg length. Choose the frame size that best suits your height and take into account the foot length. Choose a frame with a high or low top tube span, so that you can achieve the ultimate goal of "tailor-made".After reading it, there should be no problem with the size of the bicycle frame. Click here to buy a safe and comfortable frame.
Do you need a road bike?1. Road bikes can commute, but they are not good at commuting; road bikes can go for outings, but they are not suitable for outings; road bikes are a nightmare for long distances, road bikes cannot be parked casually, road bikes have too many skills, and road bike adjustments rely on With rich experience…2. Road bike is a piece of sports equipment, road bike sport is a hobby, and road bike hobby is a burden. You will enjoy the burning sensation of the diaphragm instead of the envy of others.This is not an article that encourages you to join the road bike circle. If you have the willpower, have the financial base, have time to exercise, and are interested in road bikes, then consider buying a road bike.What should I pay attention to before purchasing?1. I want to buy a road bike, but what kind of bike is called a road bike?① Reasonable geometric designBecause of the low riding posture on the road, the geometrical settings of the vehicle itself are extremely demanding. Incorrect body geometry and size are very easy to cause personal injury, and in many cases this injury will be considered as a fatigue symptom after exercise, waiting for you to find out, It's too late to regret.② 700c wheel diameter, tire diameter below 30cThe 700c wheel diameter is a follow-up standard, and the tire diameter below 30c can ensure low enough rolling resistance on the paved road.③ Drop handlebarThe purpose of the handlebar design is to ensure that the rider can adopt a low wind resistance posture and allow the rider to perform a variety of postures.④ Bicycle Brake/Shifter GroupsetsThe Bicycle Brake/Shifter Groupsets are a milestone in the development of road bikes. It reduces the rider's movement range when shifting, and does not have to leave the corners of the fingers to avoid accidents caused by operating errors.⑤ Self-locking pedalWithout self-locking fixation, many technical actions cannot be completed-such as rocking a bike and low-position downhill. and it is easy to cause danger in the open environment of the road race. Therefore, it is necessary equipment for road bike sports.2. What size bike should I buy?① For normal people, the simplest correspondence between height and frame is basically certain, and the fine-tuning of the body proportions depend on the seat tube and the stem.② The basic attribute to measure the size of the frame is the equivalent horizontal center to center length and the seat height (Center to Top) length. Among the two, the horizontal top tube is the most direct and important data. Due to the promotion of compression racks, many manufacturers currently do not directly indicate the size of the frame by the length of the horizontal up tube but use the label or the length of the riser to indicate it. When considering the frame, you must query its official website geometric information to obtain the horizontal upper tube data of each size.The following is a reference for height and frame size. Since the top tube settings of various frame levels are different, only the range options are given.<160cm: It is recommended to be the same length first…otherwise you can only choose a special children's road bike.161-165cm: It is recommended to have the same length and height first… Be sure to buy it. The horizontal top tube is 49-51cm.166-170cm: It is recommended to use a frame with a 50.5-52 horizontal up tube, and the maximum length should not exceed 52.5cm171-175cm: It is recommended to use a frame with a 52-53 horizontal up tube, and the maximum length should not exceed 53.5cm176-180cm: It is recommended to use a 53-55.5cm frame, and the maximum size should not exceed 56cm181-185cm: It is recommended to use a frame of 55.5-57.5cm, and the maximum size should not exceed 58cm186-195cm: It is recommended to use a 57.5-59cm frame, and the maximum size should not exceed 59.5cm>195cm: If you can't use a frame of about 59.5-60cm, you probably need to customize a bike… A finished frame with a horizontal top tube exceeding 60cm is very rare.The above is for reference only. The easiest way is to find a suitable place to do a fitting, but the fitting will change with the change of skills and physical conditions. If there is no fitting condition, you need to specifically consider which end your height is in the range. For example, if your height is 181cm, buying a 58cm equivalent frame is obviously prone to problems, but if it is 185cm, buying a 55.5cm frame may not be impossible. In addition, these reference data only need special attention on the first bicycle. When you constantly modify the bicycle settings, you will know what kind of bike geometry you need: large or small frame, layback seatpost or straight seatpost, the angle of the stem, the drop bar, and the reach of the drop handlebar… these experiences are only for individuals.The heights of some well-known cyclists are listed below, and the top tube dimensions of the frame and the equivalent level of the frame are just for viewing:Alexander Vinokourov: 177cm, Tarmac SL4, 537mmLance Armstrong: 178cm, Madone 6, 544mmDavid Zabriskie: 183cm, R5 VWD, 548mmDenis Menchov: 178cm, Aeroad CF, 560mmFabian Cancellara: 186cm, Madone 6, 560mm
For those who are just getting started with a mountain bike, and in order to let everyone better enjoy the fun of cycling, here are some tips about how to use derailleur correctly.After cycling for so long, it is found that most riders do not use the derailleur correctly, which causes unnecessary wear and tear of the chain and derailleur, and causes the performance of the derailleur to decrease after a short period of time! Now I will briefly introduce you to the reasonable use method of gear matching (27-speed mountain bike as an example): 27-speed bicycle has 3 chainrings, and there are nine cassettes behind it. It is generally considered that 3×9=27 so it is referred to as 27-speed The reasonable way to use the derailleur is to use the smallest chainring (1st gear) in the front and 5678 gears behind (as shown in the picture), the middle chainring (2nd gear) in the front, and (2, 3, 4, 5) in the rear. , 6 and 7 gears), the front is hung on the largest chainring (3rd gear), and the back is hung at 123 gears (as shown in the figure, the gears are 1.2.3.4.5.6.7.8.9 from small to large cassette). Will cause unnecessary wear and tear of the derailleur!Pay attention to some problems when using the front largest chainring. Try not to use the largest rear cassette when using the front largest chainring. This way, the use of front and rear shift will maximize the tension of the rear derailleur and the front derailleur, and the chain tilt will be more serious. Such use will shorten the life of the chain and the life of the derailleur, and the accuracy will also be reduced! There is also the smallest chainring and smallest cassette as much as possible because when this gear is matched, the twist of the chain is also relatively high. Not only is the chain tilted more severely, but the chain is also the loosest in this gear, and it is easy to bump Chain fight! So try to avoid using the largest chainring with the largest sprocket, and the smallest chainring with the smallest sprocket! !! When using the largest chainring, the cassette is generally used with 1, 2, 3, and gears. When using the middle plate, the cassette can be used with gears 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, and 7. When using the small disc, the cassette can be used with gears 5, 6, 7, 8, and 9. Using the derailleur in this way can greatly extend the life of the derailleur and its stable performance!When riding on an ordinary asphalt road, the front chainring (operated by the left finger) is fixed in the middle (or the largest chainring (first gear)). The rear chainring (operated by the right finger) is easier to understand. The smallest front chainring is only used when going uphill. How to choose the gear ratio of the rear chainring? This is determined by the number of pedaling rotations (the number of rotations of the front chainring (center shaft) in 1 minute). So how much rotation is more suitable? It varies according to foot strength, technique, and heart and lung function. Generally, 70～80rpm is more suitable.Note 1: The choice of speed change should be based on your own situation. For example, the middle chainring of the front gear is often used, or the largest chainring is often used. If the physical strength and foot strength are 30km/h, maybe outer is suitable? When the physical strength and foot strength are 20km/h, maybe the middle chainring is suitable? Within the range of compensation through the rear shift, choose the shift that suits you, and choose the speed and cadence that suits you.Note 2: 70～80rpm is the general standard, some people are more suitable for 70rpm, and some people rotate more than 90rpm. The important thing is not to increase the torque to the pedal but to rotate smoothly and briskly. Don't hurt your knees, and don't get too tired of your muscles. Use muscles as much as possible, and pedaling with efficiency and less fatigued is a good pedaling method.Pay attention to us, we will post more tips about riding.
